MILAN, Jan 17, 2001/ --- Trust Giorgio Armani to get the military mood that has swept Milan just right.

While other Italian designers have floundered around on this warlike fashion front sending out fake soldiers, an inspired Armani made modern uniforms for real civilians.

Take coats, for instance. Cut high with broad lapels and simple straps at the back, Armani's were quite simply the best this season. His trench coats were also outstanding, in particular two micro-fiber, belted trenches in chocolate and slate, followed by some wonderful loose leather dusters.

In knits, Giorgio was super casual with opulent, loose-weave cashmere cardigans that begged to be accessorized with a cozy armchair and a good book.

Fittingly, the mood was chic sportswear, and Giorgio staged quite a sporting coup with his front row: Luis Figo of Real Madrid, the world's most expensive soccer player, sent the paparazzi into a nervous fit, as did Andrei Shevchenko, the handsome younger Ukrainian striker of AC Milan and the most prolific goal scorer in Italy.

"I love the show. So many great suits for me to wear," a smiling Shevchenko commented.

Armani's suits are mostly shorter, one-button silhouettes this season, but the best look was a gentlemanly double-breasted corduroy jacket worn with wide leather trousers in matching colors.

In the younger, more casual Emporio Armani line, the designer showed great bomber pilot shearlings, soft crepe shirts and futuristic biker boots.

But Giorgio's cleverest stroke was the novel formula he used to present Armani Jeans. He projected some black and white footage of that line's ad campaign featuring a handsome young couple making out in the rain on a lower Manhattan rooftop. Then he sent the same pair out on to the catwalk to a roaring round of applause.

Giorgio Armani Fashion

Giorgio Armani Fashion

Giorgio Armani Fashion

Giorgio Armani Fashion