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Giorgio Armani: Chauffeur Chic
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Jun 19, 2002/FWD/ --- Giorgio Armani is having a very populist moment.
On the same day he presented his top-price signature men's collection in his giant
custom-built exhibition space in Milan, the designer was widely reported in the Italian
press as criticizing the concept of luxury as fundamentally wrong.
"The word luxury makes me sick. It brings to mind those divas who once upon a time paraded
around with Afghan hounds. There's too much emphasis on objects and clothes that don't
correspond to real life," Armani was reported saying in several Italian dailies.
Armani conceded that he produces highly expensive products, "but there's something for every
pocket in my five collections."
His fine show Thursday, the final day of the Milan men's season, ended with five models
appearing in eveningwear, several of whom looked frankly like chauffeurs with V-shaped,
buttoned-up jackets.
Over the speakers boomed the opening soundtrack to "The Sopranos." Now, while we love the
series, it's partly because big Tony and his gang dress so very badly.
Even taking into account Giorgio's recent proletarian leanings, the New Jersey crime boss
does seem an unlikely role model for a collection whose suits retail for close to $2,000.
That's not to suggest there were not some elegant clothes on Armani's catwalk, anything but.
To cite just a few examples, there was a trio of fabulous multi-button shearling coats, cut
high at the neck with just the right amount of frayed edges; or a pair of soft, knitted
cardigan jackets that would flatter most men.
Indeed, it was a mark of what a great designer Armani is that he could take as grandfatherly
a garment as a cardigan and make it chic and stylish.
His suits varied from a broad-shouldered, power-dressing mid-'80s look to a new silhouette
composed of short one-button jackets with slant pockets and fluid pants.
His rant against luxury took visual form in a foursome of padded and patched denim outfits,
where the models loosened their ties - this series seemed a paean to jaded salary men.
Then big Tony hit the soundtrack with his SUV cruising over an American industrial bridge
on the way home to suburbia.
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