Marithé + François Girbaud Fall 2005
Paris Prêt-á-Porter Fall 2005
Marithé + François Girbaud: Magical Movement & Curved Highlights
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Javier Mateo
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PARIS, Mar 1, 2005/ FW/ --- In the twighlight, enchanted rag dolls use mixed texture for expression as Marithè & Francois Girbaud gauge metamorphosis through constant research and fiber mutation.
The French duos fall winter 2005/06 collection is a journey from past to present giving a new twist to the female silhouette where Charlie Chaplin meets Mary Poppin’s chimney sweeper yet have strong Jonny Rotten punk attitudes.
Urban myths are broken and re-constructed as these not so innocent angels mix tailored little jackets with flouncy skirts and laser patterned floral denim jeans that button at the ankle.
Neat chaos is controlled through zips, harnesses and buttons as Marithè and Francois Girbaud give and take volume as they please, on trousers, skirts, dresses and jackets.
Girls play with shapes and silhouettes. Taking from the past, they tighten waists and accentuate the upper torso through bodices and bustles, leaving petticoats to peep cheekily from under skirts as underwear becomes essentially chic giving the camisole a new role in street wear before moving to traditional menswear cuts and pinstripes.
Crushed and worn, faded and polished, polyester canvas is treated at 230°C to give a leather like appearance while trademark Girbaud eclectic mixing of fabrics from warm tweeds and soft velvets to prints and checks make up the wardrobe for ‘beautiful dirty.’
Raw edges and asymmetry flirt with odd buttons like appliqué on skirts, hemlines, blouses and jackets to give a hobo streetwise appeal.
Femininity comes via ruffles and tiers, floral motifs embroided onto jacket sleeves and shorts, while lambs wool keeps the cold out and bodies warm.
Magical movement and curves highlight as always the Marithè & Francois Girbaud collection charging continuity with rich with energy and maintaining authenticity. Paradoxical and ironical, this wardrobe is for active free thinkers that choose to push wearable boarders and believe that contemporary dress uniforms are a reflection of who they are.
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