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Gucci: Matinee Idols in Greatcoats
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Jun 18, 2002/FWD/ --- Just when every men's designer in Italy has been busy dressing
long-haired poets, along comes Tom Ford with a wonderful Gucci collection for well-groomed,
hip, modern gentlemen.
"I thought it was time for a little formality. I was thinking of '30s movie stars," Ford
explained to FWD backstage after the show Tuesday, the third day of the Italian men's season.
Staged in Gucci's custom-built runway space, made over with fantastic faux polar bear pelts
composed of sheepskins, the show was driven by a cocktail-hour soundtrack composed of an organ
and a tinkling piano.
Nearly the whole first half of the show was made up of greatcoats, with high, double collars,
elbow patches, shoulder vents and regimental details, exactly the sort of look the whole of
Milan has shied away from post-September 11.
"I wasn't thinking about military or anything like that, but so much of men's fashion is based
on military, so it sort of just came out," Ford said.
Worn with a dashing fedora hat, the Gucci greatcoat, which will be widely copied, is not for
the shy and retiring.
Neither are this season's pants - big and bold, and made of crumpled, boiled wool.
Like the coats and jackets, they appeared a size or two too large but gave the models a grand
air.
The color palette was limited -- navy blue, black and ecru, with just the occasional hint of
a print in the shirts.
Ford also sent out some fine new two-tone "Donegal" brogues, with darkened toecaps, and
typically perfectionist, was wearing them when he took his bow to massive applause.
The finale was a surprising turn, as a half dozen models sauntered out in tails, smoking
jackets and tuxedos backed up by an operatic rendition of an old Roy Orbison song from the
soundtrack of David Lynch's "Mulholland Drive."
Finally a great fashion moment in the most reserved Milan men's season in eons.
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