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Gucci: Welcome to Tom's Hotel California
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Milan, Jun 26, 2002/FWD/ --- "Rock star on holiday," said Tom Ford after his latest
exercise in well-honed fashion sexuality in Milan Tuesday.
From the cockily perched Panama hats to the naughty black velvet slippers, whose Gothic
lettering carried messages like "Suck Me," "F*** Me" and "Boy Box," Ford was back trawling
his favorite fashion loam - erotic desire.
An instrumental version of "Hotel California" opened the show, marking the contrast with last
season's formal, classic collection, from which an image -- of models in white tie and
tuxedos -- was placed on guests' seats.
The opening half dozen outfits featured hirsute models in silk off-duty bomber jackets and
cotton military vests embroidered with humming birds, butterflies and silvery cherry blossoms.
These were worn with floating satin pants and the aforementioned perverse loafers.
Milan has been wrestling the tailoring problem of how to make multi-pocket cargo pants both
chic and comfortable, and it's to Ford's credit that today he came up the best solution so far.
He sent out a squadron of billowing drawstring pants in silk satin with dropped crotches,
which will be widely imitated. His other smart idea was jogging pants for the home with
frontal waistline yokes.
These looked perfect for lounging around in, yet hip enough to answer an unexpected call
at the front door.
The Gucci rocker also got plenty to wear on the beach, in particular some great surfer
shorts in beautiful kimono-style crepe de chine and silk satin.
For evening, Ford offered chalk stripes in shimmering super-light wool.
But he saved his cleverest flourish for the finale, with five beautiful kimono-print
dressing gowns.
"Not Hawaii, but Bel Air, the South of France, Cap d'Antibes," suggested Ford, when asked
where his rock star was headed.
And certainly to a five-star hotel suite for a torrid post-concert night.
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