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Gucci Menswear Spring 2002
Milan Men's Ready-to-Wear Fashion Week Spring 2002

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Gucci: New Direction
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD

Milan, June 25, 2001/FWD/ --- Tom Ford, who built Gucci into a mega-brand by focusing his runway shows on just a few clear, powerful themes, took the label in a new direction Monday with a loose, highly individual show.

Where Ford used to take an idea and then refine it, his show Monday was all about mixing up clothes and references. Thus, baggy gangster pants came with beautifully cut blazers, or heroic leather jackets were worn with low-slung jeans.

"It's about the individual, personal dressing, being different. I didn't think it right anymore focusing on one look, one style, one idea," said Ford backstage, explaining his bold change of direction. His own belt summed up the new mood. A large buckle on one hip read, "TOM."

Even his choice of model was fresh: from hirsute youths that looked like they were nursing a hangover, to one unshaven fortysomething fellow with a lived-in face.

The change in direction comes as Gucci launches a new customized service in its boutiques. Starting this fall, clients will be able to choose from 60 different fabrics and order personal variations of Gucci suits. From the first fitting to final product will take five weeks.

Tom didn't lose sight of the bottom line, however, as there were plenty of killer looks and accessories in the collection - pointy two-tone wingtips, elongated suede slip-ons and figure-hugging denim tunics.

And in a season where designers are obsessed with total looks, it was refreshing to see a show where the models wore the clothes like most of the clients will.

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Last updated June 28, 2001 fashionwindows.com,Inc© 1997-2008

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