Hussein Chalayan: Growing Up
By Mari Davis

DALLAS, Mar 11, 2004/ FW/ --- Known for his theatrical runway shows, shown in odd places, Hussein Chalayan departed from his norm and showed a serious and grown up collection at the Grand Hotel in Paris.

Hussein Chalayan is one of those talented designers who continually try to raise the bar on himself.

A fashion alchemist who transforms heady concepts into clean architectural clothing, his avant-garde style is still very apparent in Mariacarla’s all black skirt suit. Using leather as closure in an equestrian inspired jacket with box pleats starting from the waist and a jodhpur inspired skirt, Hussein Chalayan proved once again his mastery of techniques.

And the great thing about it, the look is actually wearable and most of all, very artistic.

And check out the Peter Pan inspired navy boots! You will see it again worn by Liya Ebede in Cracker Jack pants. Navy inspired? Not necessarily.

Hussein Chalayan told reporters that his show was based on the concept of solitude and personal identity. This actually explains the eclectic nature of the collection.

Another standout, which will surely be a hot item come fall is the chocolate colored mackintosh with oversized lambskin collar and big pockets. Talk about commercial viability.

Making sure that the collection is well rounded, Hussein Chalayan also cocktail dresses, like the old rose off the shoulder cut out bodice with an asymmetrical hemline.

There were definitely some couture elements in the collection. But we already know that Hussein Chalayan is a master cutter and impeccable tailor. What is truly important in this collection is that Hussein Chalayan is thinking of the retail level.

His stint at Asprey taught him about commercial viability, and it shows in this collection. Even with that in mind, Hussein Chalayan stayed true with his art, because no one can say that this collection was created just to please the retail buyers.

It is artful, beautiful, wearable and most of all, very much still Hussein Chalayan.

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan