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Hussein Chalayan: Chalayan's Commercial Cleverness
By: Karl Treacy
Photos courtesy of Hussein Chalayan
Jul 7, 2002/ FWD/ --- "Hussein didn't want to do anything conceptual for men."
So said Hussein Chalayan's PR, Annika McVeigh, when FWD dropped by his Paris showroom for
a peek at his first foray into men's wear.
And indeed there was little to upset anyone of a delicate sartorial disposition.
There were plenty of great pieces conceived with Chalayan's intelligent and forward-thinking
sensibility though.
According to McVeigh, buyers' interest in his collection has been incredibly positive.
Not only have many buyers for men's stores come calling, but so have most of the buyers
from stores that stock his poetic women's wear.
Chalayan's clothes for women are sold in the US in stores such as Barneys and Jeffrey in
New York and Mameg in LA.
In Paris he sells in hip hangout Colette and the newly refurbished and suddenly cool
Le Printemps department store.
"We're taking it slowly - we're going to expand little by little.
This collection has about 35 different styles, repeated in about six different colors,"
commented McVeigh.
Treated denim was cut into a biker jacket with collar tab and welt or zippered flat patch
pockets, or was closed at the front with either a zip or buttons.
These jackets were lined, not with satin, but with a deconstructed T-shirt.
Burnished effect, micro-cord jeans were slick, and track pants were cut like trousers with
a waistband and a fly.
T-shirts had juxtaposed necklines, or had a shirt collar with asymmetric placket attached.
If you're looking for something more cerebral, there were easy cut suits or a faded cotton
blazer doubled with sweatshirt fabric.
Shirts striped like lines on a school copybook page with geometric topstitched patterns will
get the trendy design crowd talking.
Chalayan's use of packaging motifs was particularly inventive though.
Pockets were sealed, and seams outlined with paper printed with 'Tear Here'-style instructions.
The paper used is called Tyvek, specially treated so it can be washed and ironed without danger
as many times as the rest of the garment.
Continuing the packaging theme, the designer also uses a small rectangle, outlined like an
envelope with red, white and blue, as a logo on the inside of waistbands.
T-shirts come in packages that look like you've received a present in the mail.
The collection bows in stores worldwide for Spring 2003, and will retail at an average 130
Euros for a worked T-shirt, 200 Euros for trousers and 500 Euros for a jacket.
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