PARIS, Mar 1, 2007/ FW/ --- Hussein Chalayan proposed four seasons in one for Fall 2007 as he conjured them all up in a collection in the shape of an extremely thoughtful fashion exploration of the future.

Blackout on the highest runway set of the season (more than one meter high) terminating in a wider cube with a central void. Blackout on the audience of huge fashion shows. Wuthering storm winds are heard in the dark, a figure appears, its straight cocktail dress lights up from inside with a series of multicoloured light-emitting diodes (LED).

The diodes change colours and move like enlarged pixels playing a symbolic video all around the dress shape. The tone is set, lights can come up, the model can walk as the 15.600 LEDs combined with Swarovski crystal continue to move and illuminate the dress to evoke symbolically spring.

Smoke comes out from the depths of the crater-like central void. And the runway show goes on with two less high-tech but still outstanding coats of red, beige and black jacquard woven in small patterns to create an optic effect. The coats are architectured in futuristic structures and inlays inspired by the articulated panels of the Samurais.

The fourth exit is another technological marvel. The model stops on the runway and the see-through hood in her coat unfolds itself to fully enclose the head. We could need to protect ourselves in a universe where weather might provoke quicker temperature moves, where the air might become rarefied as suggests the steam that the matrix-like void spits continuously.

But the vision that Hussein Chalayan proposes us with is not an anxious one. It was reassuring and tender to witness that the designer was making a statement about the everlasting need for future elegance as the perfectly cut set of coats advanced, as the origami dresses unfolded, as the occasional flying saucer hats of worked crystal went by, designed to protect but also to enhance your mood on poor winter days with adequate lighting.

The fabrics morphed into one another, look after look, largely contributing to the poetry of Chalayan’s vision. Large blue striped jerseys appeared on the garments proposed in the initial jacquard, and gradually invaded completely the silhouette until they were, in their turn, little by little, devoured by ivory tones.

The structured show went on until the end in this constant and wise progressive succession of fabrics, used on many an interesting shape, each styled on black latex leggings and matching lacquered stilettos with silver heels. A quote of Hussein Chalayan around his theme sums it all up: “The climates constantly renew and recreate all entities, including our bodies and minds demonstrating that lives and deaths are in constant states of flux”.

A special mention must go to the set of perfect black coats that show how Hussein Chalayan managed to combine intellectual acuity with wearable clothes and a high-concept staging with material for the regular wardrobe.

The innovations were also in the tailoring of headgears where the hats and caps were continued into a dress or a jacket to create one-pieces with names yet to create. Some dresses with three different layers seemed light as clouds when the air blown under them made them rise like feathers to better reveal their elaborate structures.

Conscious but never strident, far-sighted but reassuring, conceptual and pertinent, Hussein Chalayan has proposed in this collection a good seventy percent of clothes to wear next fall and he is certainly on his way to selling them with this presentation made with a propos and hope for the continuity of elegance among humankind.

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan