MILAN, Jun 26, 2001/ FW/ --- Jil Sander, a label synonymous with luxurious minimalism, has labored mightily to find itself since Sander stormed out last year following a row with the new owner of the house, Prada boss Patrizio Bertelli.

And though the Sander men's collection designed by Milan Vukmirovic, shown Tuesday in Milan, had lots to recommend it, Jil's spirit and sensibility is still clearly missing.

Despite Jil's departure, Prada reported healthy sales growth last year, and one can see why from these clothes. They were highly wearable.

Out on the runway came exactly-cut blue suede trenches, slick pencil pants and a slim pinstripe suit that was the best anyone has presented so far in Milan.

Vukmirovic also cleverly played with Jil's classic Puma s neakers, adding salmon-colored slashes and elongating the shape. Vukmirovic also cuts a neat sweater, and his detailing and neck sizing were spot on.

To his credit, Vukmirovic, who built his reputation as the buyer of ever-hip Paris emporium Colette, has proven he can design elegantly modern clothes.

But somehow, though the cash registers may ring, the zeitgeist is missing.

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander