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Jil Sander: Why Would Patrizio Bertelli Want to Sell off This?
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Mar 7, 2002/ FWD/ --- Looks like Milan Vukmirovic has reached the right side of
his learning curve at Jil Sander.
With a polished, classy and ever-so-masculine collection with echoes of between-the-wars
chic, Milan presented his most accomplished collection for Jil Sander since becoming the
house’s creative director four seasons ago.
"I was thinking of Biba and the ‘20s. There was a sort of very sophisticated moment that
I wanted to capture," the designer told FWD backstage, as a thick crowd patiently waited
to render their compliments.
Named after the song "If I Was Your Girlfriend" by Prince, whose music dominated the
soundtrack, the collection came with plenty of nifty lifts from Sander’s recent men’s
collection.
Vukmirovic, once a feted buyer for hip Paris emporium Colette, has not forgotten his
retailer’s senses.
When he noticed that female clients asked whether he did women’s versions of his flared
trousers and jogging pants, he decided to produce precisely these.
Though the first track to play was "Raspberry Beret," the trio of opening outfits was all
in white, as Carmen Kass glided around Sander’s minimalist shows space in a long, snowy wool
coat whose shawl collar was made of a knit.
The understated makeup and the scarves wrapped tightly around the head lent a pre-war sense
of chic to the proceedings.
Once again, the Sander footwear was first-rate, in particular some knee boots with vaguely
S&M straps, and some sure-fire best-selling high heels with a web of crocodile strands
creeping up the calf.
Practical and never too much, the clothes are aimed at fashionable women who abhor the
idea of being a fashion victim.
So, a series of pants in stripy gray or Prince of Wales checks will be just what they need.
For entertaining at home, there were sleek silk skirts and masculine high-collared shirts;
for stepping out in the evening, low-cut silk columns and some exceptional dresses with
glass bead patterns.
The city of Milan remains rife with rumors that Sander is still on the block, even though
its owner, Prada boss Patrizio Bertelli, has furiously denied the gossip.
And quite why he’d want to sell Sander right now when the brand seems back on the right
track is a mystery.
Jil Sander
Jil Sander
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