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Jil Sander -- Vukmirovic Faces the Music
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Mar 6, 2003 /FWD/ --- Is there another designer who listens to more music than Milan Vukmirovic, the creative director of Jil Sander?
Few people working in fashion are as aware of the intimate link between fashion and changes in musical taste as Vukmirovic, whose fall winter 2003 collection for Sander was all about posh punks and elegant rockers.
Powered by a punchy soundtrack that included a huge chunk of Led Zeppelin’s classic cut "Kashmir," the designer presented a collection of finely honed, creatively cut looks.
Staged in Sander’s headquarters opposite Castello Sforzesco, the giant medieval castle that was the home to Milan’s ruling family, the Visconti, the show opened with a slew of asymmetrical kilts in black and silver that would flatter scores of women.
Straps, ties, belts and the odd safety pin pulled up or tied down most looks, making a look that was sexy yet never improbable. Above all, the designer edited himself well, trying just one trick with each look, like a turquoise robe pulled up just so by so webbing belt worn by Ethiopia’s Liya Kebede.
Vukmirovic also picked up on Milan’s current obsession with the Middle Ages,sending out leather jackets cut so high up the torso they looked like battle gear, and multi-layered high-heels and boots reminiscent of knights’ armor.
For his finale, the designer wound forward his time machine, sending out leggy models like Dewi and Natalia with T-shirts reading "Eternal Love, "Bad Angel." Nothing revolutionary, but just right for today’s mood.
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