Jil Sander: Vukmirovic Revives Nico (to Rave Reviews)
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
MILAN, Oct 2, 2002/ FWD/ --- Jil Sander’s designer Milan Vukmirovic telegraphed his punch
this season by printing a computer generated image of singer Nico on his large white invitation.
The spirit of the Andy Warhol icon was apparent from the opening passage to the last and
not because the models’ makeup mimicked Nico’s unique deadpan, yet ethereal look.
It was rather the mood of the show, the clanging guitars on the soundtrack but above all,
the stylish simplicity that she came to represent and which was at the heart of this collection.
"Everything was based on the idea if Nico was around today and working in The Factory;
how would she dress. To me she wouldn’t buy vintage, she and listen to retro."
"No, she would
listen to rap and sampling and wear cool, modern sportswear," Vukmirovic argued after the
show as he received compliments from a large crowd.
As it turned up, the opening looks were reminiscent of posh punks created as they were
of scores of zips – miniskirts fashioned out of a series of horizontal zips, tops held
together by zips and even a singlet on Eva Herzigova composed of zips woven together.
Nylon was the dominant fabric this season used in billowing parkas, over the shoulder
white tops with medical straps and a really wonderful short and vest combination in a
faded green that will turn up in a lot of fashion spreads.
One could see Nico donning that look and also the cool double sleeveless singlet, the
inner one in white, the outer in gold mesh, that in which Jacquetta Wheeler hit the catwalk.
Prints were banished from this collection, as were most unnecessary details and accessories,
except of course for shoes.
The Sander collection had plenty of cool footwear looks with the best being high heels
with four inch wide ankle blinkers, that one could very easily imagine throwing on the
evening of a gig in Max’s Kansas City.
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