MILAN, Sep 29, 2006/ FW/ --- Raf Simons’ tenure at Jil Sander has been more than productive. Now on his fourth collection for the house, (second for womenswear), Raf Simons kept the house code of Jil Sander while infusing his own aesthetics.

Sticking with the classic tailoring of the Jil Sander name Simmons worked in the notion of fluidity, creating subtle drapes and volumes. The result was a new femininity that never shifted from the Sander standards.

A simple pristine show that was bright in colours and innovative in design, the collection was very musically inspired from a pianist at Carnegie Hall to a conductor at La Scala.

Dresses were classic and modern at the same time, toying with the idea of a modern orchestra. A large bow on the back of a sparkly dress played as both a romantic detail and functional sleeves that could be easily imagined on the solo violinist in a world re-known orchestra.

The conductor-inspired clothes were the jackets and suit pants that were redefined by shifting of the collar lines and minimizing the lapels. From a miniscule tuxedo style to a smoker jacket, the necklines were raised as the lapels shrunk. Collar-lines were shifted and shoulders were slimed down, creating feminine softness in sharp lines.

Dresses were musical in the way of their movements, as tucks and folds danced around the body. One black caftan style dress had blue contrast lining that moved in and out of sight. Sparkles and gun-metal shines also had their own active movements, creating moving colours that constantly changed. Like the reading of music notes the clothes moved in many directions but always with in a set of lines.

Bright primary colours (excluding red) livened the collection and added a summery feel. Full suit sets were daringly done in these rich pigmented colours. One was an orange that somehow remained vibrant and almost transparent at the same time, much like music that touches you with out being able to see it.

The show was beautiful and artistic. It really makes you excited to see how Raf Simmons expresses Jil Sander in the future to come.

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander

Jil Sander