NEW YORK, Feb 22, 2002/ FWD/ --- Come September, Jill Stuart's urbanely romantic fall 2002 collection will undoubtedly be a big hit amongst the young and style-conscious pining for Marc Jacobs and past Balenciaga looks, but without the budget to obtain them.

Similar to her spring collection, Stuart assembled an array of layered looks in washed-out fabrics and colors, mixed in with Portobello flea market-esque elements -- this time around, it was velvet Edwardian riding jackets, 19th century pinstriped nightshirts, billowy voile blouses with tied sleeves, and gaiter-covered boots - to create a riches-to-rags look that's emerged as the modern urban cool.

With her finger placed firmly on the pulse, Stuart showed what's become the latest trend: looser trousers tucked into knee-high stacked-heel boots.

To complete the street-cum-swashbuckling look, she paired it with oversized, overwashed blouses, fitted men's vests, weathered double-breasted jackets in rich velvet, corduroy and cotton, and a gorgeous white agneau coat.

One look that fell a bit short (mostly because it missed its minute window of opportunity) was the series of inner-city, oversized pants in washed cottons and satin with unfinished hems.

Paired at one point with an extra-large, shapeless knit sweater, the look escaped any sense of "sexy slouch," when even sexy slouch is beginning to seem sloppy.

Some of the more interesting looks included patchwork pieces: a skirt, sweater, and dress that incorporated quilting and lace and touches of shimmer. (Herein lies that Balenciaga reference.)

Never completely original in concept, Stuart does come from the school of designers like Katayone Adeli, who have a remarkable ability to hone in on desirable, downtown ideas, spin them into their own, and present to the public a series of sure-fire successes.

Jill Stuart Fashion

Jill Stuart Fashion