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John Varvatos: A Subtle Evolution
Written by: Nelson Mui
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
New York, Feb 9, 2001/FWD/ --- Men's fashion types often brace themselves
for the slow drip of fashion news season to season,
but even attendees of John Varvatos' Fall 2001 runway show were surprised to find the program
notes were a reprise of the designer's last collection for Spring 2001 -- literally.
Despite the fact the notes didn't quite correspond to what was shown in the collection, there
wasn't much of a departure from last season. The designer, who wowed the fashion flock exactly
three seasons ago with his debut collection, knew what his customer wants and gave him more.
In this collection, Varvatos continued with many of the same silhouettes he showed in the past
two seasons - the softer, relaxed suit; the full, slouchy trousers and luxurious, rugged long
shearlings; the Armani-esque sportswear - all showing his fine attention to detail and use of
luxurious fabrics. Yes, the designer can cut a suit, and give men great colors - jewel-tone
hues of olive and amber. But for Varvatos to continue on his promise as the leading light of
new American menswear, he needs to take more risks while evolving on his strong start.
As one leading stylist at the show summed it up: "There's not the impact that was there with
the first show. It's like how Joseph Abboud first started, but then ultimately went too safe."
That's not to say there weren't strong pieces in the collection, like skinny suede and leather
pants in rich browns and caramels, and long military-influenced double-breasted coats with
the odd twist of detailing at the buttons or a pleat at the back. And chunky biscuit-crumb
tweed coats could get even non-academics anticipating the first chill of autumn.
Still, Varvatos continues to enjoy strong support from the man on the street - his line,
according to one major retailer, is "selling very well." And that, ultimately, will ensure
Varvatos' longevity.
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