John Varvatos -- The Only NYC Men's Show
(and a Good One at That)
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
NEW YORK, Sep 24, 2002/ FWD/ --- One of the greatest conundrums in the current fashion
season here is how a city like New York, crammed with thousands of successful men who
actually pay retail prices for clothes, ended up with just one proper men's catwalk show.
As the American men's season nears extinction, practically all the men's wear on display is
slotted directly into women's fashion shows.
All, that is, except for one designer, John Varvatos, who presented a well-honed,
polished collection at the New York Public Library on 42nd Street.
What's great about Varvatos is that it's clear he observes men around him and makes
clothes that correspond to their stylistic needs.
And they aren't all preppies - sitting in the front-row, R & B singer Usher clearly dug
the collection.
Varvatos billed the collection as a blend of "Parisian sophistication and St. Tropez chicness,"
but that, if anything, undersold an impressive collection that, to this European,
felt right for a suave New Englander impressing the locals on the West Coast.
The designer also has a sure hand when it comes to picking his fabrics.
His range of silk and cashmere, slightly lived-in linen, smooth suede and treated
cotton showed what an experienced designer he is.
Opening with a self-assured white-coated cotton jacket paired with five-pocket flared
jeans and ending a with cocky black pinstripe denim jacket, the collection was a polished
potpourri of attractive styles.
Yet Varvatos was at his best with linen - distinguished double-face boxy linen jackets,
button front-collar knits and five-pocket linen jeans.
Plus his selection of ghurka Venetian shoes, hand-stitched suede moccasins, vachetta sandals
and off-white suede wingtips would have made a great stand-alone shoe collection.
No wonder business is so good, with the house opening a new flagship store in Los Angeles.
The presentation did lack a little spark, even if there weren't any bum notes.
But the biggest problem with this show was, simply, that it was the only one -- on leaving it,
you realized the season was over one hour after it started.
This is New York?
Click here for more photos.
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