LONDON, Sep 15, 2002/ FW/ --- Maria Chen Pascual staged her Spring 2003 collection in a large gray warehouse space which was fitting setting due to the industrial mood of the clothes.

The collection gave nods to early Vivienne Westwood with bondage-style trousers and skirts, as well as Elizabethan costume in the form of flowy poet's blouses worn with tight trousers, tunics, and lace-up leather vests (the toeless knee high boots were an excellent touch).

Sending both men and women to the runway, the garments can be classified as unisex, although there were definitely some feminine and masculine pieces in the collection.

Using a monochromatic color palette (black and white and various shades of gray) with some soft plum and light blue accents, it was a very sombre collection.

But don't think for a moment that there is no excitement nor heat.

Great detailing such as heavy zippers, buckles and epaulettes gave the aura of gothic military urban wear.

Though this statement sounds incongruent, the collection is very focused and directional.

Call it Industrial Chic.