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Markus Lupfer: Freakily in Control
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Gruber-FWD
London, Feb 19, 2001/ FWD/ ---
Designer Markus Lupfer has been predicting a harder look in fashion and his slickly produced
London show in Lords cricket grounds was a brilliant paean to tough chic.
"The lights of the world are going out ... a world eclipse, a blackout," intoned an imperial
voice, as the lights went off and laser lights shot 100 yards across the brilliantly green
practice grounds at Lords, the inner sanctum of Britain's most traditional sport.
Mixing the conventional with the eccentric has always been one of the great strengths of
Lupfer, a young German designer who has grabbed the attention of fashionistas here and
abroad.
Barneys and Kirna Zabete, for instance, have retailed his collection.
For Fall 2001, Lupfer opened with to-the-knee skirts and dresses printed with powerful
graphic splashes and blotches of color.
Lupfer insists on putting "real outfits" on the
runway, underlined by his Yves Klein blue dresses with deep-cut necklines, cleverly pleated
shirts and mustard and yellow sweaters.
Throughout, the tailoring was decidedly masculine. Markus cut some great flat-front pants
and one-button asymmetrical jackets for the urban groovers who buy his line.
His fans are
also going to love his latest shoes, pointy high heels in purple and yellow perforated leather.
And though Lupfer lives near Huxton Square, London's equivalent of Williamsburg, this
collection was a little posh.
He shook up the traditional English salmon pink redingote by
pairing it with black leather pants and his signature shoes.
You've heard of control freaks. This collection is for women freakily in control.
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