LONDON, Feb 22, 2003/ FWD/ --- Markus Lupfer, the German designer who has made it big in London, chose the Royal Opera house in Covent Garden for his fall 2003 presentation. It started very late. Why? A certain pint-sized diva with blonde-and-black locks was due to attend, and the emptiness of two front row seats glared at the antsy crowd.

When the show finally started it was, yet again, a '60s fest. Has the "make love not war" mantra and peace demo antics of the '60s, with its fashions of Courreges, Cardin and Quant, rendered British designers senseless?

And what of Christina Aguilera in town for a week of special appearances and fashion shows? Gossip amongst the style press today spoke luridly of her antics at Jefferson Hack's party Sunday night to celebrate his biannual fashion title Another Magazine. The details are too seedy to repeat, but let's just say no one expected Aguilera to appear at anything today ­ in part due to embarrassment, in part due to a mighty hangover.

Still, halfway through the show, two huge bouncers and three tiny bleached blondes turned up to stare at the catwalk for three minutes. One of them was Aguilera looking peachy but blank.

But back to Lupfer's clothes. The mid-calf boots were lifted from Courreges, but were in black leather, not white patent. The prim coats were double-breasted, black and cute. The silhouette was body-hugging ­ almost like ski thermals. Tight polo necks and leggings were key ­ in black, or turquoise-flecked knits. The overall feel was super-luxe après ski. Huge knitted fur scarves looked dramatic, as did thick knit beanie hats. All the skirts were short and sexy. Tight T-shirt dresses fit snugly over leggings. Cropped short jackets had high funnel necks; there were voluminous bombers too.

Lupfer is great at print. He can also do a mean party dress. His evening dresses were versions of what Twiggy or Edie Sedgwick would have worn back in the day, but with a contemporary twist. Ribbon-edged panels like fish scales, and swirly psychedelic prints made these short, sweet dresses standouts. A bandeau print dress with an arctic thick fur hem looked good too. If we all decide we want to look like modern day Twiggys next season, these looks will be perfect.

A special note ought to go to the jewelry and accessory designers Katie Hillier and Sally Vickers, whose striking, colorful and graphic work gave the collection the quirk it needed to bring it into 2003.