It's Official -- Adrover's Back
By Godfrey Deeny
Photos by: Visko Hatfield
NEW YORK, Sep 28, 2002/ FWD/ --- After a week of politically correct fashion it was
thought-provoking to attend the Miguel Adrover catwalk show in Manhattan, whose world vision
challenged current, cozy conventional wisdom.
Not that the show was a dour political sermon.
It began hilariously with an extended recording of senior fashion folk, like Kate Betts
and the New York Times Cathy Horyn, unwittingly taped calling to confirm their requests
for invitations for the show.
This trick had quite a few people on tender hooks lest they sounded less than considerate
on the recording.
But as a test of politesse, you may be surprised to hear that our colleagues emerged well.
Joke over, the show, entitled "Citizen of the World," opened before a backdrop of
silhouettes of international skyscrapers, its fashion looks alternating between urban
American streetwear and Adrover’s inventive tailoring.
One second you had a gal in a Yankees cap, running shorts and singlet in a look named
"Freedom Warrior," the next a hip socialite in a gleaming white T-shirt dress composed
of Swarovski crystals.
Exaggerated stereotypes populated the runways, few more threatening that a Gattaca-like power
couple in matching silvery sharkskin corporate suits whose appearance caused the soundtrack
to simmer to threatening silence.
And with fellow Europeans concerned about American unilateralism, Miguel sent out a female
model in a baggy blue shirt called "World’s Hope," on which was emblazoned the United Nations
global logo, the same image that grace the mini-passport that was the show’s invitation.
Adrover has never shunned political controversy.
His previous show was largely influenced by Egyptian traditional dress; even though it
pre-dated the Sept. 11 attacks by two days, it was still unpopular at the time for designers
to address this culture in their work, for fear of alienating U.S. customers and buyers at
Fashion Week in New York.
Since then Adrover took a season off after an ill-advised partnership with the briefly-alive
Pegasus Group.
The collection he showed in the Bryant Park tents last night underlined how much he was missed.
Miguel is a naturally gifted tailor with a unique voice evident in a brilliant top composed
of five "encrusted" classic men’s shirts or a multi-pleated "Tower" dress that echoed
the architectural columns of the backstage.
His ending selection of modern evening looks including a wonderful silvery Art Deco
crystal beaded cocktail and a superb gray silk georgette robe trimmed with silver earned
bursts of applause, just before the designer strode out to take his bow smoking a cigarette.
Mike Bloomberg, please note.
Click here for more photos.
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