Mar 10, 2002/ FWD/ --- "A Rococo Jackie O" is how Nanette Lepore describes the feel of her fall 2002 collection.

Wool dresses with round collars and trimmed, belted coats -- along with lots of jet-black detailing and lace -- combined to create a parade of decorative, vintage-style looks.

Lepore's loyal following, enamored of her flirty, feminine pieces, will also surely be pleased with the collection's share of frilly blouses and ruffled skirts.

One black-tiered top brings it all together, with what Lepore describes as "a little bit of everything from the collection -- lace, netting, velvet."

The show in fact played with texture throughout, layering short dainty bed jackets over wool sweaters, and in one ensemble, combining a denim jacket, lace vest, taffeta top and velvet pants.

The patchwork that we've already seen on the runways of designers like Anna Sui and Oscar de la Renta also appeared, in both a long skirt and a short strapless dress.

Some of the most well-cut pieces, though, were the wide-leg, cuffed tweed pants.

They hung beautifully and provided the perfect contrast to the more ornate tops they were paired with.

For spring, Nanette Lepore turned to flamboyant rainbow shades for her Copacabana-esque collection, but these new pieces are much more muted.

"I still used color," she explains. "But it's not screaming bright -- mostly plums and blues."

And many of the ensembles she sent down the runway today, in their Jackie O spirit, stuck to black and cream.

Nars makeup artist Ayako played on this vintage theme, using dark purples and dusty rose colors to accentuate the models' eyes. She calls the look "Jackie O 2002" and kept it modern by using strong eyeliner.

"We're using sweet colors, but didn't want it to be too cute," she explained as she carefully applied fake lashes to one of the models.

To add extra edge, she used a clear lip lacquer with crushed Japanese pearl to shimmer-ize the eyes.

The lips were stained with a new sheer grape/pink shade called Damage that Nars will be debuting for fall.

Ayako kept the skin natural and translucent.

Kevin Woon of Jed Root took the same tack for hair, keeping it simple.

He worked with the models' natural textures and simply enhanced their existing cuts.

And in the girly spirit of Lepore's offerings, several of them wore antique-y washed velvet bows in their hair.

Nanette Lepore Fashion