NEW YORK, Feb 13, 2003/ FW/ --- When the fashion crowd assembled in Paris last month for the Balmain Couture show, there was something missing.

Anna Wintour was not there, though 3 of her clones (one of which is Japanese) substituted. But her absence was not nearly as pronounced as that of Oscar de la Renta, who resigned from his contract with Balmain due to health concerns.

Well, in New York this week, not only was the real Anna Wintour front row, along with Joan Collins and Donald Trump, but also the unmistakable signature of Oscar de la Renta when he sent an understated and elegant collection down the runway.

Perhaps it's de la Renta's link with Parisian Haute Couture, or perhaps his link with a splendid past, but either way, he appears to effortlessly present what is elusive to so many of the younger generation of designers: namely a sense of artistry, that transforms clothing from a merchandisable fabric into a glamorous wrap.

His show began with casual attire, but subtly incorporated cashmere, sable and even alligator leather, from day dresses, coats and even a mini-skirt. Eventually, a red silk kimono-inspired redingote emblazoned with ornate designs and worn over a white silk blouse, added more zest.

But, where de la Renta excels is evening wear, with gowns and dresses evoking the bygone era of St. Laurent, or even the voluptuous style of Valentino. One especially luscious pale rose blouse was paired with a wrap, white plumes cascading to form a frothy trim. A red silk evening gown was painted in gold brocade, while black crêpe was worked to near perfection in another full-length creation.

One particular gem sparkled in the form of a pale, champagne-green beaded chiffon gown, interwoven with feathers for a magical result.

The finesse of detail, and the sheer elegance of the collection, made for a rare highlight in what is fast becoming a lack-luster season in New York. With submachine gun-totting police patrolling Wall Street, and residents stocking up on duck tape and plastic for fear of a biological terrorist attack, the sadness of the real world is fast eclipsing the fashion moment.

But for one evening at least, a plethora of worries seemed distant, as high art was unveiled by Oscar de la Renta.

Oscar De La Renta

Oscar De La Renta

Oscar De La Renta