Paul Smith's Back-to-Basics Chic
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
PARIS, Jan 28, 2002/ FWD/ --- Continuing the big reality check surging through men’s fashion,
Paul Smith showed a fall-winter collection this Sunday that was back to basics with the designer’s
own inimitable flourish.
Smith used, by his standards, a somber palette that emphasized a gentlemanly quality with suits,
classy shirts in taffeta and nylon, and his blue-blooded pants in gabardine and cavalry twill.
"Did you like it?" asked Smith, fashion’s least egotistical designer, after the show in the
grandly decaying splendor of the Petit Palais, built in 1900 for the Universal Exposition.
What was there not to like in this show, which featured some fabulous shiny, hand-painted velvet
jackets, shirts embroidered with a spring garden of flowers and some very special suits.
Smith’s big idea this season were two series of made-to-measure suits.
The first five came in jacquard or navy selvedge where the lapels and pockets where piped with
the same fabric, but sewn horizontally.
The second five-some, which made up the finale, were in barathea with denim or satin, with cool
python trim on the shoulders or jacquard binding.
A single-breasted tux with satin binding had the stylists scribbling.
Expect to see this and other great items from Sir Paul’s show on magazine covers this fall.
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