Paul Smith: Conservative & Classically Modern
By Michelle Taylor

PARIS, Jan 27, 2004/ FW/ ---- Sir Paul Smith celebrated his English heritage with the menswear autumn winter 2004/05 collection presented in Paris last Sunday.

For each series of outfits, groups of models waited at the end of the catwalk as if part of a catalogue shoot before taking turns in parading Smiths range.

Black overcoats differing in closures opened the show, from the classic double-breasted trench to visible and invisible buttons and then there is the velvet variety.

He brightens basics with detailed highlights; coloured socks and belts; lime green and sky blue shoes, bright laces and tie-dyed horizontal stripes on knitwear.

Comfortable flat front pants and trousers in kaki variations were accompanied by bright knitwear in pinks, reds and orange putting a ray of sunshine into the drab English winter.

Traditional English fabric choices like Prince of Wales check and pinstripes appeared relatively relaxed and modern instead of stiff and stale, with jacket cuffs, pockets and lapels edged in velvet.

Ties are a key accessory for Smith in his attention to men’s style and tailoring, and when they aren’t present there is the alluring turtleneck sweater, which has become a must for any fashion follower who has had their eye on these recent collections.

Casual sportive inspirations from cricket whites to drawstring waists on jackets and functional outer pockets. A denim jacket is cut in classic 1970’s style and finished with press-stud closures.

Marine influences also as anchors and rope motifs were plastered onto knitwear and shirts teamed with casual loose trousers in relatively lightweight fabric and deck shoes with rubber soles.

A finale of dark suits in pinstripe and velvet, black or white shirts varying in design from little floral prints, to minute numbers and tuxedo panelling in the front, before Smith bounced down the catwalk all smiles.

This collection is conservative and classically modern reminiscent of many of his past shows, yet bound to fill commercial orders the world over. After all if something works in economical terms, there is really no need to change it.

Paul Smith

Paul Smith

Paul Smith

Paul Smith