Paul Smith : Optimistic Point of View
By Michelle Taylor
(Photo by IndigitalTV)
PARIS, Jul 2, 2003/ FW/ --- Paul Smith, the designer who made stripes and heaven
forbid, color, acceptable to the conservative.
This Brit takes the drab out of being English and for spring / summer 2004 concentrates
on cheriness.
Stripes any which way you can, from ties to suits to various fabric types.
He opened the show with white and then moved into a technicoloured almost hippy state 70s
and 80s with bright pinks and greens.
A bright white setting complete with white cufflinks as gifts, much appreciated
icecream to cool the crowd from this all too soon heat, white, and white
chairs and white runway.
His models moved into the spotlights as groups
defining each segment almost in an editorial setting, sitting and standing
in nonchalance.
He then changed the pace, and showed the classic suit black and tailored,
then moved to bright extreme colours such as a fire engine red leather jacket with music
to match making the collection almost ageless, stripes were after all worn by Charlie Chaplin
in the 1920s.
There was only the slightest reference to the sailor with use of metal eyelets in
shirts.
Inlays appear down pant legs often with fraying edges giving them a light
street look while fitted to the ankle with thick elastic or buckles.
Old habits are hard to break, but then again if it works, use it, as Smith uses
floral and graphic patterning on shirts and pullovers.
An all white finale with sexy boys cheering down the catwalk in a series
of white shirts, from sequins, to lace, to fabric mixing to just a plain
well made white shirt.
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