LONDON, Sep 14, 2002/ FWD/ --- What has happened to Sir Paul Smith? The 56 year old designer's smart, pretty and - let's face it - very forgiving women's clothes have had a sex injection.

The opening outfit of black leather hot pants with side lacing, baby pink knee vinyl boots and drapey long black tail coat, to a mix of 70's, 80's and 90's rock'n'roll, set the scene.

What followed was an homage to Patti Smith, Jerry Hall, Jane Birkin, Blondie and even Britney, seen through the eyes of Helmut Newton.

Well, most of the time, anyway.

Sir Paul still has to dress his loyal fans for work, picnics in the country, holidays in Provence, and days out with the kids. He did this with his usual panache.

Striped poplin shirts in candy colors, floaty long chiffon summer dresses secured with an Obi, long white embroidered shirt dresses, cool baggy carpenter jeans, roomy dungarees and navy pinstriped skirt suits will keep his regulars happy.

He even sent out some black hooded tracksuit tops.

At night his regulars may be even happier. Never has so much black leather, vampish corsetry, and zip-open-to-the-thigh pencil skirts been seen on a Paul Smith catwalk.

The clothes looked like fun, and as everyone knows Sir Paul is a fun guy.

"I don't want to get into a formula with my collections, it's dangerous," said the designer after the show. "I made the same decision with my menswear. We've made both lines sexier."

His strategy is working sales of this new collection are up 20% on last year.

"I'm inspired by strong individual women, I've always been a big fan of Patti Smith and Jane Birkin. Besides, there are so many corporate roll-outs. Why should I add to that?"

Sir Paul Smith has been in business for 32 years, and is Britain's most successful commercial designer with a turnover of £225 million a year, before licensing deals that include everything from jeans to watches and hankies.

Paul Smith

Paul Smith