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Sophia Kokosalaki Spring 2002
London Fashion Week Spring 2002

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Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki: Designer to Watch
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD

The latest talent currently being tipped for greatness, Sophia Kokosalaki staged her Spring/Summer 2002 collection late Thursday night in London.

Even before a model exited the backstage, Kokosalaki’s cause was undoubtedly helped by the presence of Alexander McQueen in her front row. Thanks to liposuction and a healthy new diet, McQueen, who ballooned during his time designing Givenchy, has positively slimmed down since leaving Paris.

An informed observer could also not help appreciating the irony of seeing Concetta Lanciaux, one of the executives instrumental in bringing McQueen to LVMH, in the front row. Lanciaux, a senior talent scout for the world's greatest luxury conglomerate, diplomatically sat 20 seats down from Alexander.

In the Dimco Building, a huge and magnificently tatty disused industrial space in Shepherd's Bush, Kokosalaki presented a very pretty, occasionally arty collection that cements her claim as a young pretender.

Sophia showed some salmon-colored summer dresses in corrugated silk crepe that were the epitome of modern femininity, as well as some finely executed bomber jackets worn with crisp pants and some extremely pretty to-the-knee skirts with geometric patterns.

It's true that not all of her ideas worked. Why spoil the effect of a beautiful bomber jacket with great pleating and delicately embossed leaves by pairing it with granny-ish sheer knickerbockers?

Moreover, the collection, while definitely wearable, lacked fireworks and the sort of outfits that scream "great magazine cover." That said, Kokosalaki is very much a designer to watch. Even LVMH seems to agree.

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion
Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion

Previous: Roland Mouret Spring 2002 London Next: Tristan Webber Spring 2002 Part I London
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