Sophia Kokosalaki: The Princess of Darkness Does Some Color
By Melanie Rickey
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Click on image to see full photo
LONDON, Sep 15, 2002/ FWD/ --- Sophia Kokosalaki, the 30-year-old Athens-born London native,
is one of the hottest tickets at London Fashion Week.
Her presentations feel Parisian; her dark, modern clothes have a Berlin underground meets
ancient Crete streak, and are often all-black affairs.
Not this time.
In the vaulted circular hall of the Commonwealth Institute in Kensington, a listed Modernist
building by the architect Johnson-Marshall, Kokosalaki proved she has hit her stride with a
collection that was all about Sophia.
This time there was lots of color.
Muted shades of petrol blue,washed out gray, earthy tan, faded turquoise and nude inspired
by Byzantine art were used to beautiful effect to open the show on light as air chiffon
blouses with flyaway cap sleeves, slim, gently layeredGrecian silk skirts, and crafty
macramé tabards studded with chunkycolorful crystals, or with deep decorative or abstract
necklines.
This collection was a break from the edgy tailoring the designer has become known for, but
as she says, this is for summer, and in the summerwe want dresses, blouses and skirts --
not coats, suits and jumpers.
And Kokosalaki's dresses are something else.
Her true passion is for ancientcraft techniques from her homeland, which she seeks to
modernize throughplenty of experimentation.
Each, admittedly black, dress that featured in the finale was her passion in action.
The delicate webs inspired by Nawn Gabo sculptures, abstract silk layers in odd shapes,
and leather macrame work across the breastbone of each slim gently waisted knee-length
dress, have become the designer's signature pieces.
And they are much in demand: The summer 2002 versions of these dresses were a sell-out.
That's not to say there was no tailoring.
There was, but it was casual.
Light wool trousers were cut like track pants.
Sharp leather jackets had the sleeves hacked off and were decorated with intricate scrawls,
and detailed with tightly pleated leather waistbands.
"My clothes are feminine but not sex bomb or exhibitionist," she saidafter the show.
"I wanted this to be low-key, light and simple. I was inspired by some 60's shapes, and
of course Nasty Rock!"
The designer is well known for her predilection for Joy Division, Sonic Youth, The
Cure and The Strokes.
Kokosalaki's clothes are available globally.
She recently signed amanufacturing deal with Italian company Pier.
Notably, Franco Pene of Gibo sat front row.
Could she be the next designer to join Gibo?
Fans of her clothes, and there are many, will be pleased to know that the designer
also does the occasional sell-out range for TopShop.
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