PARIS, Feb 28, 2006/ FW/ --- Many designers have been jumping on the ‘Anglomania’ bandwagon recently but few understand just what makes the real England tick quite the way that Vivienne Westwood does. Historical modernity, forward thinking heritage, a bit of irony and a lot of irreverence were all once again back on the agenda from the master iconoclast.

Layering was the key to this collection as we were encouraged to get winter all wrapped up with a tattered and slightly disheveled mix and match ethic. Nevertheless, stripped down to its elements, many of the rag doll exits would in fact be found to be made up of rather wearable pieces.

So a conservative cable knit cardigan was hidden under a long hair jacket as both enveloped a sort of ultra low crotched flight suit that at first glance appeared to be a dress. Otherwise sweaters were tied around the waist to form short skirts over lattice bound stocking boots for a tousled effect complete with slogan T-shirts.

Elsewhere a pannier skirt that is surely not destined for production disguised the fact that the jacket that accompanied it, even with its enormous peaked hood, was actually rather chic.

The cut of shoulders was interesting throughout with the line of a portrait necked corset rising up into ruffled peaks. The same effect was achieved later with a leather jacket while boxy shoulders were formed by folding over the material rather than inserting pads as in the Eighties.

Asymmetrical draping was also a feature of the collection with models swathed in usually tartan or argyle prints. This lent the outfits a somewhat Scottish air but this was perhaps misleading as, rather than traditional kilt wraps, here the result was more akin to a toga, slung as they were over a shoulder. One such item was formed by wrapping a dress around the body instead of putting it on but the best result was obtained as a bustier was made more substantial with an over the shoulder cloak which descended to form a long train.

As ever the styling was exceptional and the collection, although sometimes a little difficult to examine, well worth the perseverance.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood