PARIS, Oct 3, 2006/ FW/ --- Can you still make a subversive statement, after some thirty years of design, even when you are the English Queen of punk rock? The answer this morning coming from Vivienne Westwood was definitively positive.

Since the very beginning of the show, you knew it had something to do with dolls. And the runway was like a parade of fully-grown baby women going to a childhood party for which they would have cut their costumes themselves.

The full outfits comprised the Barbie dolls types, the graffiti hip hop street kids, the baseball player, cowboys without Indians, fairytale princesses and bad witches, - among which the bad smoking teenager girl acting like a role model for some - and, in the end, a super glittery Barbie Crystal type bride.

It was light, fun, witty, generous, and, of course, the technical aspects of the clothes were irreproachable. For instance, they only seemed like they had been lacerated by excited kids. But they were, in fact -particularly on one suit of graphic black and white silk- exceptionally stitched and inlaid even though each piece of fabric could move independently, creating a visual effect that made this ensemble look like it could collapse any minute like the pieces of a jigsaw puzzle.

The statement behind the collection was to be found, like a leitmotiv in the print appearing on several pieces: an innocently drawn daisy followed by a childlike handwriting of the badly spelt sentence: “I am expensiv”.

Backstage, Vivienne Westwood confirmed that she had started this collection imagining a kind of Barbie doll in a box with full outfit but a void instead of a brain. And that ‘”I am expensive also means I am supported by all the poor people on the planet.”

“To the grown up spoiled children and teenagers we can sometimes be, the message is clear: before we pretend we can access luxury goods, let us remember how poverty is growing in the humankind. Let us be responsible, grow mentally to this level of consciousness and act adequately, or we might well remain a bunch of irresponsible kids with growing wrinkles,” Westwood added.

All of this was expressed here in a very nice manner, through a brightly colourful and clever fashion show to make the message all the more effective. The most wonderful thing is that Vivienne Westwood can actually combine a strong message and a fun show, with clothes that are wearable and should be sold. Bravo.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood on the runway