Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche: Gallic & Gaelic
By Godfrey Deeny
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Mar 13, 2003/ FWD/ --- Call him Maitre Thomas du Ford. The Texas-born designer
produced his most French collection for Yves Saint Laurent, for better and, sometimes,
for worse.
In a very patchy collection, Ford got off to a powerful start, but gradually lost
his way in a series of unlikely looks that teetered between a boudoir and a dark bar.
Backed up by a loud soundtrack composed of four famous Diana Ross hits, and featuring several
black models with the Supreme's hairdo, the opening looks were a clever update of French
chic -- ruffled and lace dresses topped by big-shouldered suede jackets and boleros.
Ford used a lot of fur - though there was no sign of PETA for one of the first times this
week - featuring sleek shaved mink coats with hairier arms, bombers in a similar style,
and fox stoles.
To the strains of "Love Child," Ford's fur fantasies included snug bomber jackets with fur
tails running from the model's neck to her rear end.
There was a great deal of lace as well: on the back, hips and thighs of leather pants,
and in increasing amounts in naughty dresses and pretty sheer tops.
So much so, that one was never terribly sure how some of the looks would actually make it
out of a bedroom.
Ford also had an unfathomable obsession with a bright leprechaun green, using the hue a
half dozen times in layered cocktails and ruffled columns, frequently coupled with
crystal-encrusted Perspex necklaces and breastplates.
A couple of tops with jade and beading were exquisite, and Ford's velvet pumps and
sleek clutches looked like sure sellers.
Overall, the collection did not make a clear statement, even if it did have a fair share of fans.
"I loved it. It was beautiful," said Saint Laurent's former muse Betty Catroux.
Post-show, Ford greeted the throng at the entrance to the catwalk.
Asked about the Motown moment, the weary-looking designer replied, "Oh, it hasn't anything
to do with Diana Ross; it's just about fashion."
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