PARIS, Feb 1, 2005/ FW/ --- Though he signed his first collection for YSL menswear last season, it was only last Sunday was the first time that Stefano Pilati brought his show on the catwalk, marking a new era for Yves Saint Laurent menswear, both literally and figuratively.

Literally because at the end of the show, the good looking Pilati took a bow instead of Tom Ford, with whom the fashion press had gotten used to seeing; and figuratively, because the silhouettes are definitely Pilati’s and not Tom Ford.

The turbo-charged sexuality that has always been Tom Ford’s trademark was gone. Instead, Stefano Pilati presented a sober yet very chic and well-dressed YSL gent from the youthful all-black high-collared suit to the charcoal-gray two-button suit and finally to the tuxedo cum bow tie.

It was very Yves Saint Laurent, including the purple smoking jacket to the snug-fitting green suit. But Pilati also put in his two cents, in a manner of speaking sending a raw-leather winter coat with lamb shearling.

Pilati even found time to design bags and accessories, the bread and butter of the Gucci Group, putting the YSL logo on leather, something very hard to miss.

Very clean lines and a structured silhouette, Stefano Pilati is well on his way making his mark on the Yves Saint Laurent label.

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche by Stefano Pilati

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche by Stefano Pilati

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche by Stefano Pilati

Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche by Stefano Pilati