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Stefano Pilati’s Mannishly Elegant YSL Rive Gauche
Paris Prêt-á-Porter (Paris Fashion Week) Fall 2007
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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YSL Rive Gauche DALLAS, May 7, 2007/ FW/ --- It was Yves Saint Laurent himself who started dressing women in men’s clothing as formal wear. As fashion trivia lovers know, it was because a female friend of his wanted to wear a tuxedo to a formal dinner so the legendary couturier made one for her. The rest is fashion history.

Last March, Stefano Pilati delved on that side of Yves Saint Laurent, something that has not done before since the French couturier retired. While staying true to the spirit of the house, Pilati also incorporated his own style and innovations, making the collection his own.

Multiple variants of the suit jacket from the oversized ‘I got this from my father’s closet’ to the two-button suit with rounded shoulders, Stefano Pilato demonstrated that mannish clothing does not have to masculine.

There was that atmosphere of feminine charm, though it is obvious that the inspiration came from men’s clothing. Take the beige mini dress for example. The basis was a tuxedo jacket. Narrowing the collar and creating a very low low-shaped neckline, the waist was pinched with darts and the ‘double-breasted’ effect done below the waistline.

Flaring slightly from the waist down, four buttons strategically arranged to be a square; it is a DRESS and not a suit jacket.

Pilati did not stick to suits though. He also created tunic dresses that were given tiny pin tucks at the waist to give it shape and volume. Suit dresses were also proposed, but instead of making them mannish, Pilati made them feminine by teaming pencil skirts with pullover sweaters and then layered over by an oversized jacket.

Eveningwear as was very slim and tubular, bordering on minimalism. A golden tunic dress and a black bare-shouldered cocktail dress were neatly ‘bubbled’ thus both could stand on their own without using any other adornments.

But, don’t think that Pilati forgot accessories. There are long snakeskin gloves, snakeskin shoes and gold jewelry, plus the eyewear.

 

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