NEW YORK, Sep 17, 1999 /FW/ --- After Hurricane Floyd washed all activities out of the tents yesterday (by order of Mayor Guiliani) the sun rose early and fashion got back to normal.

First up for me was the long awaited Randolph Duke show which was a huge hit with everyone. It was a parade of crisp clean memorable clothes, with nautical and Parisian influences throughout. Lagoon colored silk sharkskin foul weather pieces like the popover and marin front skirts were sleek and sexy and paired with white Celtic knits like long cardigans and a cheeky matching beret. Shorts were visible through see-through long knit skirts.

I particularly loved a piece called a cardigown - a blue cashmere knit slinky to the ground in one piece. Silk scarves were crafted into floaty skirts and gowns in sand, teak and lagoon. The gowns were the biggest crowd pleasers however. The galaxy was simply a flesh beaded column with a short train was stunning as were the cerulean and azure beaded gowns with patterns of wheels and flowers worn with big beaded hoop earrings.

The dusk comet dress had panels of alternately heavier and lighter beading that graduated from shades of navy through to white - a shimmering silhouette. Randolph received huge applause at the finale.

In the adjoining tent right afterwards was eccentric British designer Vivienne Westwood and there appeared to be standing room available. This red label collection presented for the second time in New York for Vivienne; is thought of as a means for developing her wacky ideas for a wider market. Actress Milla Jovovich sat front row as this energetic collection was strutted down the runway by models with attitude and vintage rock n roll. Her signature bustiers came out with capri pants accessorized by huge headscarves tying up the hair.

A strapless bustier dress was worn with a man’s tie. Gingham accents on high-waisted nipped in strapless dresses and the shock of pairing colors like cobalt blue with navy and mauve worked great. Outfits reminiscent of fishing gear with yellow slickers, rubber looking waders and rain hats were fun. Brightly colored broad pin stripe orange and mauve silk was the theme for the tight skirt and capri pantsuits. The tops and bottoms were contrasted using the same print. Orange and turquoise tunic dresses over leggings didn’t cut it for me but my best piece of the show was a 50’s pale lilac short prom-style dress worn over spandex black cycling shorts.

As a Brit, I’ve never worn her togs but they are always inventive and always amusing. Long live the Queen, I say!

Since opening a concession in Henry Bendels snazzy department stores earlier this year, French designer Catherine Malandrino has gone from strength to strength. Go to any cool nightclub downtown New York and some groovester will be wearing one of her signature brightly colored Stetsons. Her show, mid afternoon today, proved to be no less a color-fest for the hip audience who turned up to enjoy it.

Vogue’s Andre Leon Talle sat front row clutching a Louis Vuitton holdall next to designer Diane von Fustenberg. The accessories of mosaic semi-precious stones on suede belts, exotic luxurious hand silk ribbon shawls to replace the jacket and filigree antique gold cuffs and extra long pendant earrings really brought her rock and roll, Parisian happy collection to life. Up close backstage, the make-up team had created a Cleopatra eye using a reddish copper instead of black (a lot of people shy away from this said one make-up artist but it really brings out the color of the eye) and a very nude look for the rest of the face. The jewels and hairpieces were stunning, beaded, colorful and intricate.

A succession of silk dresses over cigarette pants beaded and embroidered cashmere sweaters with ultra light chiffon skirts and beaded and embroidered sleeveless leather vests set off pants. My favorite piece was the embroidered sari-inspired slit skirt worn with an asymmetrical beaded knit top and shown with a stunning silk shawl with a fringe. The citrus leather and camel leather pants would be a great wardrobe staple. Overall the collection was truly feminine and fun.