Day 6: Diary of New York Fashion Week Spring 2000
New York Fashion Week Spring 2000
By: Staff Writer
Photo below: From the Anand Jon Spring 2000 collection
Photos by FW
Saturday, September 18, 1999
NEW YORK, Sep 18, 1999 /FW/ --- Since the hurricane rained off Thursday, a few shows were re-scheduled to today. Unfortunate for
the designers but most of the international press had kept their flight bookings and gone home
already. But it didn’t dampen the three collections that I saw.
First up I went backstage at Anand Jon and watched as the hair was twisted and finger
loosened and faces were glittered and bronzed to complement Anand’s colorful sari-inspired
collection.
I ask Anand what he makes of the Indian influences that have appeared in a lot of shows
this season and how it affects him - since this has always been his signature style.
He responds, "It's a form of flattery actually. Indo-chic has always been there on a subtle level
but designers have never really thought why until now. Now they are making a casual element that has
always been there stronger."
I ask him where his line is leading if the rest of the pack have caught up to him in this regard.
Will he end up doing his own version of street wear? "This is a challenge, I agree. But I’ve
never forgot my Indian heritage although that’s not all that I’m about. I live in the USA and day to
day influences can’t help but seep in to my collections so yes, its possible influences from street
wear will infiltrate."
Out on the catwalk Anand's designs were indeed a textural bacchanalia of cultures colliding.
Combat style boots worn with khaki speckled embroidery shorts and a black crystal and gold girdle
belly jewelry worn on the tummy between embroidered tops and fitted skirts. The glitter ball shoes
and stockings-and-shoes-in-one that rounded off dresses like the gray sequins hand beaded yantra dress
took the sari feel to downtown groovy.
My favorite pieces were a simple lavender silk bias dress flowing and worn with encrusted ruby and
gold thong slippers and a pink organza dress with silver embroidery. Brocade mini skirts and bandeau
tops and a blue halter with mirror worktop were memorable too.
Because of the new Saturday schedule there was no fight to get seats at
Vivienne Tam as it was
held in the big tent. Since Vivienne is a native of Hong Kong, she called her collection the Year of
the Dragon and refers to representations of the dragon throughout the clothes.
Birdsong played as the models began to glide out in hand embroidered tech fabrics - very unexpected.
I thought the fringed mint pointelle camisole and dress were exotic and this worked best in a lime
fringe bead halter-top with an open back worn with a lime wax silk eyelet skirt. I was not crazy about
the palm frond, sea monster and dragon prints but absolutely loved the chartreuse metallic halter tee
and turquoise sequin dragon embroidered skirt - they were a lovely mix.
For my last show of the week, it was back in the Pavilion for the British designs of
GHOST.
How unfortunate that the hurricane rained off a designer that had to keep twenty-four staff in New
York an extra two days for the re-scheduled shows. They were certainly very disappointed to show on
a Saturday since they were expecting the best ever RSVP list of attendees of all the big editors.
No matter, backstage I found designer Tania Sarne
who told me to expect a collection that would
be a celebration of a 21st century carnival. The mood she said would be feminine, seductive,
modest and elegant. As we took our seats around a square runway ruched, tucked ribboned flowing
separates flowed by as a string of coral and pomegranate colored dresses and tops with ribbons
trailing from cuffs and sexy frilly dresses.
I liked the jellybean print tea dress - a spaghetti string slip dress in pale mint with multi
colored jellybeans embroidered on. However, the most striking combination I think was the dotty
drill bell skirt in black and coral paired with a black cotton side wrap top and the most feminine
of all, the finale dress - a moss colored Georgette backless ribbon dress. It was a feminine
gypsy-style ending to an inspiring but grueling week.
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