PARIS, Jan 21, 2003/ --- Adeline André was a serious and impressive show, as haute in concept as it was in couture.

She sent out looks inspired by priests, nuns, lawyers and Venetian dodges, and gave a nod to the current geopolitical instability.

Intermixed with this mood of authority were more whimsical looks -- a welcome relief -- but those were few and far between.

Steven Dohan, André’s collaborator, told reporters backstage that “Adeline has never used black, previously only subtle shades of brown and gray.”

Despite this, André created soft but structured looks, and remained true to her aesthetic of simplicity.

Additionally she used whites and various shades of green and red.

The overall effect was fragile and full of movement.

Fine fabrics were touted, such as crepe silks, cottons, wools and velvets, to create this effect.

This doyenne of detail used ribbons, geometrical window pockets, ruched bibs of varying lengths, stiff collars and scarves to accentuate bias-cut, softer-edged tunic dresses and two-piece trouser or skirt combinations.

André’s pièce de resistance was her paprika-colored dress in which she pushed her iconic patented concept of three-holed sleeves to eight.

The effect was dramatic layers of asymmetrical ruffles waving down.

Another unusual detailing was the addition of color to highlight the transition between the monotone separates.

Similarly, mixed-aged models with Wallis Simpson-esque 1930s looks and symmetrical hair buns, had bright fluorescent streaks of make-up on.

Dohan also told FWD: “Adeline wanted to color the shadows… a hopeful gesture.”

Salvador Dali taught André as a young art student, and given this unusual twist, his influence seems not to have faded.

André sees little divide between visual art and fashion, as her choice of venue illustrates.

The show took place in the gallery space of her long-term friend, contemporary art dealer Anne de Villepoix.

Her first prêt-à-porter show in 1983 was staged inside the painting-set of Gérard Garouste.

And in the six years she has worked as a couturier, André has definitely put herself on the map.