Adeline André Haute Couture Spring 2007: Abracadabra!
Paris Haute Couture Spring 2007
By: Jean Paul Cauvin
Illustration by Julien Fournié
Photos by FW
PARIS, Jan 23, 2007/ FW/ --- Adeline André has been showing her collections of her most exclusive pieces during the haute couture week since 1995, and since 1997 as a guest member of the French Federation. She has been now acknowledged a full haute couture designer since 2005 and certainly deserves it with respect to the creativity she has been constantly showing, particularly in garment construction.
Her apparently seamless dresses, capes and jackets created in her collection shown yesterday an elongated figure for a centered woman with a taste for Zen. Her collections might have been called in the past “monastic” or “nun-like”, the twenty looks she sent on the catwalk had an extra note of sensuality, as if the magic designer wanted now to prove that she could also integrate in a sensible way, the power of charm.
Don’t get us wrong, this is Adeline André and violence or vulgarity are banned. But the colours and some half naked thigh seemed to show more flesh than in the past and unveil a brighter part of woman’s personality.
Faithful to her colours as the designer is, she has been sticking to her usual palette for this summer. Only she has changed the proportions in the use she made of them. No white at all, but vivid colours triumphed.
Her tomato red is a marvel and difficult to describe or get a visual grasp of through photos only. To feel the full power it conveys, you have to see the real fabric. Her curcuma or broom flower is the same: naturally vibrant and powerfully energizing. When night appears, it is, as always in a deep shade, same for the earth tone that play it on the darker side. Only André’s blue persists here and there like a pastel. The colours were enhanced by the whitened complexions of the models wearing the garments.
Fabrics used were the best double face cashmere, veil of wool, silk georgette or silk crepon descending in magic pieces of clothing that seemed to have been moulded on the body although they gave it comfort in every way.
Standouts for this sensuous season included a “one free leg dress, but also a long red biased dress with a single shoulder strap that would have revealed one breast if it had not planned to be worn with an integrated half bra on bare skin, ”, a piece many a fashion writer could never have imagined Adeline André would have come up with. As a reminder of this shape, a pirate’s band of the same fabric had been strategically placed over the right eye.
Less visible wonders included an intricate trousers dress and, above all, a tomato red silk belted dress that displayed “sismic” pleats.
A magician couturier who, thanks to her craft, makes nearly all seams vanish, this is what Adeline André has proven to be this season again, following uncompromisingly her personal creative tracks, finding the right balance between conceptual and wearable, sculptural and flexible, edgy and elegant.
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