Andrew Mackenzie Menswear Fall 2005
Milan Menswear Show Fall 2005
Andrew Mackenzie: ‘Fetish Icons’
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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MILAN, Jan 18, 2005/ FW/ --- Just where does making a statement stop and fashion begin? Known in this part of the woods for his excessive in your face homosexuality and overt sexual references (but does anyone really care what ones dish of choice is? Probably not! Let alone how one eats it!), his autumn winter 2005/06 show last night entitled ‘Fetish Icons’ was no exception to his over the top extravagance.
However leaving aside the bondage kitted out models that were led in on their hands and knees by latex mistresses and then chained to dangling chains in the middle of the runway, and the almost completely naked boys in cages for eye candy, the clothes that graced the hypnotic runway were in themselves appealing.
Hinting at the 1940’s and added inspiration coming from World War II heroes and non, models wore pageboy jackets in warm thick tweeds and wools with rounded edges and military motorcycle jodhpurs accessorized with high riding boots.
Fur collars graced coat lapels and feather down jackets hid the liberated male body beneath while press stud closures and zips, lacing and harnessed fastenings maintain Mackenzie’s bondage theme but as simple detail without distracting from the garment itself.
Military high collars and comfortable casual oversized thick knit sweaters and cardigans leave room for dashing satin jackets and mysterious uncensored evenings.
Excessive to the point of not being taken serious for his fashion at times, Mackenzie actually risks filling orders this season with a collection that his fans will probably detest, but those with the corporate check books understand and welcome.
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