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Armand Basi Spring 2005
Paris Menswear Show Spring 2005

Armand Basi at His Best
By: Contributing Writer
Photos by FW
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PARIS, Jul 5, 2004/ FW/ --- With the Armand Basi show starting more than 30 minutes late (which is pretty much on time by fashion’s standard) I had time to do a spot check on those present or should I say those not present and accounted for. Numerous were the empty seats for this collection which serves as a testament to the vision of the seasoned designer.

The show began with an elegant, pastel blue suit. It looks great in motion as it flows through in space and in time.

Basi’s yellow suit is completed with cigarette thin pants. They are an exercise in understated sex appeal; and let’s face it, Spring/Summer 2005 is all about sex.

The shoes were the only thing about the collection that threw me off. Again, what is it with designers putting silver shoes in their collections this season? As Bright colours will suffice for next season, the world can certainly survive another year or two without silver shoes.

Basi’s blue ensemble with wide, loose pants and a V neck shirt caught the eye of many other journalists and buyers as well. And no one should be surprised to see the designer’s white suit in chic places from Capri to Miami in a year’s time.

His crew neck T-shirt with a half tank top imposed on the front should do very well among the younger fans of Basi’s creations.

I noted two things about this collection that coincide with the building movement in trends for next Spring/Summer 2005. The first is the way Basi cut his pants. Like many other houses including Smalto, the dressier pants are cut with shorter zippers. This naturally means that the male butt becomes rounder and ultimately sexier. This cut is the star element that unifies the collection.

The second among Basi’s contributions to next year’s trends are his jumpsuits. Several designers showing the day before Basi like Sonia Rykiel seem to be acting in unison to dictate style for next year. Either way, those from the Paris runways will undoubtedly end up in numerous music videos.

A personal favourite from the collection was Basi’s decision to do Capri pants, whose perfect length show off athletic calves. So boys, it’s back to the gym for some squats!

In ending this review, I would like to state what a true shame that the show was not packed and that some key journalists could not be present. Those absent really missed out on some of Basi’s best work.

 

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