NEW YORK, Apr 8, 2003/FWD/ --- As most fashion editors cool their heels following the chaos of the ready-to-wear shows, the bridal set kicked it into high gear last week for their own fashion frenzy.

Though Elegant Bride editor-in-chief Deborah Moses contests that it was "a smaller, quieter season" than last fall's whirlwind, she was equally impressed with its results.

"The good news was that everybody raised the bar in their design. There was more good taste and it seemed that everybody really tried harder."

Moses cited Monique Lhullier as one example of a designer who "really pushed the envelope" this season.

Known for her sexy satin sheaths, Lhullier expanded her repertoire to a range of silhouettes, including ball gowns. She also turned out a bevy of fur accessories.

"This was a strong season for using fur for shrugs, collars and cuffs," editor-in-chief of Bride's magazine, Millie Martini Bratten, said.

"And it worked for those brides who wanted to cover up their arms or just add some unique element to their gowns."

Peter Langner showed a fur-trimmed cape, and Badgley Mischka's models carried fur handbags. Some of Reem Acra's very editorial-friendly, if not the most practical, pieces included a mohair bustier and an exquisitely embroidered mohair coat.

Fur wasn't the only textured medium that bridal designers played with. Ribbons were also on the radar, showing up in Carolina Herrera's elegant gowns, for example, woven into bodices, loosely tied around the waist, or bordering a hem in contrasting champagne satin.

Vera Wang manipulated traditional Japanese obi belts, adding satin bias strips with jeweled buckles or thread embroidery to the waists of the gowns. She also used judicious touches of exquisite beading to add a bit of sparkle -- tulle ribbon of "micro-cut" crystal, tiny pearl swags, yards of jet trim, and a "broken" floral pattern of hand-cut Italian sequins -- instead of overloading her dresses.

Lace was also a major player this season. The first looks Michelle Roth sent out in her show, which kicked off the week, included a two-piece ball gown with a lace corset top and a slimmer cut white alencon lace gown.

For Bratten, Vera Wang's use of open threadwork lace to create one-of-a-kind patterns really stood out. "There was wonderful construction here with a unique twist," she raved of the technique after the show.

Reem Acra added a bit of drama to an otherwise simple, A-line gown with an antique beaded lace and tulle coat, and Amsale's halter lace dress, with its princess train, lit up the runway.

The goddess trend of the moment also carried over from the red carpet to the aisle. Badgley Mischka, Vera Wang, Cocoe Voci and Peter Langner all turned out stunning column gowns that draped in all the right places. "The celebration of the ideal female form was emphasized by soft fabrics and decorated veils for that iconic look," Bratten said. "This was a very classic season, with classic bodices and cathedral trains as well."

And further proof that the mini is truly entrenched in our fashion consciousness for fall: even brides will be showing some leg. Sully Bonnelly, whose presentation last week Moses deems "a surprise standout new collection," showed a few short dresses, as did Badgley Mischka and Vera Wang. Some designers opted for overlays or trains, though others, such as Reem Acra, just went for straightforward minis that might be more appropriate for a red, not white, carpet.

"Overall, the collections were very playful and lighthearted," Bratten concluded. Knotted tulles and organza added frilly touches to clean lines, and there was even a return of expertly beaded bolero jackets. Florals also found their way into many collections, starting with the large hand-painted flowers on Michelle Roth's gowns on day one, straight through to the more subtle florals at Vera Wang.

Vera Wang Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Vera Wang Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Vera Wang Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Carolina Herrera Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Carolina Herrera Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Carolina Herrera Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Carolina Herrera Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Vera Wang Bridal Collection Spring 2004

Vera Wang Bridal Collection Spring 2004