PARIS, Sep 30, 2007/ FW/ --- Some designers just immediately hit the right note, the appropriate balance, the utter pertinence. Bruno Pieters has certainly proven today that he belongs to that very small circle of forward thinking couturiers: from the first exit to the last, his looks remained consistent, his runway show flawless, revealing a new aspect of his creativity and, most of all, boasting the potential of creating a trend rather than following one.

The Spanish theme –a classic for many in their career- is treated here with stern authority. No frills or polka dots, no flamenco tap dancing, no unnecessary folklore. Instead a pure and achieved research based on the architecture of torero jackets cut in monochrome fabrics in shades of cold white, authoritative black, ice blue, enhanced here and there by the delicate overall shine of silk satin, the magic of lurex threads, the sparkle of sequined inlays.

Never literal in the treatment of his inspirations, Bruno Pieters goes his own way, making the geometrics of his constructions purer and yet more thought out each season, revealing this time perhaps a closer link to Thierry Mugler’s anatomic garment structure, that is, if and only if, the name of another designer needs to be quoted to relate to the history of fashion.

The general feel is quite equestrian, the authority of the models wearing these clothes becomes natural as their remoulded silhouettes elaborately architectured with clear inlays and folds are punctuated by wide bracelets and a strictly straight ponytail that seems to give a posture to the entire body.

Leggings are reinterpreted here with a strap going under the foot as in the ski pants of the fifties, jackets and dresses often reveal several layers around the shoulders or the neckline, femininity is enhanced above all by the wrap up effect of wide but short coats of thin organza.

The result is always a purer figure, built on apparently simple proportions but highly elaborate structure that give women a definite strength and make a clear statement: their wearers are not to be ignored, their delicacy will only unveil itself to who can observe and detect… A resolutely aristocratic behaviour reinterpreted for a 21st century woman with soul and pride.