Carven by Pascal Millet: Couture For The Client
By Karl Treacy

PARIS, Jul 14, 2002/ FW/ --- How refreshing it is to turn up at a show for a small couture house and find the crowd full of clients.

Not planted clients who will probably get some media-worthy dresses for free, but real clients, the kind who appreciate couture and want something beautiful to wear.

Carven couturier Pascal Millet showed this afternoon a collection that, despite some bumpy stretches, was a winner for the house's clients.

A backdrop of gothic arches fortunately didn't lead to an awkward costume moment.

Instead it led to a small selection of delicious upscale desirables for women who prefer class to flash.

Down the runway strode a model in a fitted navy whipcord suit, with plumes in her jaunty hat and killer suede boots.

Millet does tailoring well, with decorative darts and strong shoulders.

A navy trouser suit with silk jeans had a superb embroidered military coat draped around it, and a long coat in gray cashmere with pewter topstitched satin panels at the shoulder and placket was elegant and modern.

The predominant colors were navy blue, red, gray and black, with metallic touches to light the way.

A simple, easy, wrap dress in red lace would be great for a relaxed cocktail party, and the perfect little black dress was short and flirty in guipure lace and spaghetti strap organza.

Every now and then there came a blooper.

A couple of suits were a little too sensible, even for Grandma, and Millet let loose a couple of times with ruffles and inserts that just seemed too much.

Satin trousers were cut circulation-stoppingly tight, but looked great in red on Esther de Jong with a simple top like a draped scarf.

A long-sleeved, bare back, white lace dress had a white fur apron tied around it with a burgundy velvet ribbon, and was a poetic look for a wedding dress.

But the biggest crowd-pleaser was also the best example of ably handled, complex craftsmanship.

A molded riding jacket, fluted at the back, and covered in silver sequins, had an arrow piercing the heart and coming out the other side in a ruby red wound.

Under this was a sweeping peach colored skirt covered in little knotted squares of organza.

And the crowd lapped the whole thing up.

So many looks drew excited applause and the final line-up was beautiful.

Carven may be but a tiny blip on the fashion radar, but when a small house like this can produce such an accomplished, interesting and wearable collection, it puts into perspective what couture is really about -- great clothes.