PARIS, Jun 30, 2001/--- The setting for the Dries Van Noten men's collection shown Saturday - a beautiful glass palm house in a lush Paris garden - captured what's distinctive about this designer. The location, like the designer's fashion, was exotic, quirky and full of panache.

The actual runway was bathed in fine tropical rain, which gave a new allure to the front-row editors and buyers one has seen for the past week in Milan and Paris.

When the rain suddenly stopped, the show began with a flurry of crinkly suits in linen and cotton with Van Noten's famed palette - rosy pinstripes and burnished pastels.

Dries's big idea this year was dropped-crotch Afghan trousers, paired with loose jackets. Admittedly lots of guys would die before wearing Afghan pants, but these suits looked sensational - just the sort of thing you'd want to wear on a first date with someone gorgeous.

Van Noten's skill in fabric innovation was also apparent in bouclé linen outfits, arty baggy shirts and cricket blazers. The models looked modern and hip, none more so than Richard Avedon's curly-haired grandson Matthew.

"I wanted color but not something that makes you go like this," Dries told FWD, mimicking someone throwing up their hands to avoid bright light.

Just seconds after Van Noten took his bow, the rain recommenced and the fashion pack filed out to a delicious buffet of Malaysian dishes served on a terrace underneath a pink Paris sky. I agree, it is a dirty job....

Dries Van Noten Menswear

Dries Van Noten Menswear

Dries Van Noten Menswear