PARIS, Mar 5, 2006/ FW/ --- A Russian marching song, a red runway and a black pencil skirt matched with a silvery gray tube top paired with a black velvet day jacket adorned with lace heralded the Elie Saab Fall 2006 collection.

Saab who is known for his color exuberance and breezy silhouettes was inspired by Imperial Russia this season, the collection a surprising change of pace from his ethereally flowing gowns to sharp lean silhouettes that approach architectural structure.

Using deep tones of scarlet and burgundy, plus black as the dominant color, Saab used prints and bright colors sparingly. His only concession to ‘brightness’ were splashes of powder beige, white, ochre and chestnut among the 58 exits presented.

But though this a darkly romantic collection, Saab still opted for luxury, using velvet, crepe, chiffon, silk, organza, taffeta, lace and silk jacquards in the collection. And with mink and fox fur used in coats and adornments, the opulence always associated with an Elie Saab creation was readily seen.

The front row, which were composed mostly of Middle Eastern royalties and their families plus the social set, were not disappointed although this was a different facet of Elie Saab that they were witnessing.

The fitted wool jackets refined with bows and mini flounces, together with fitted trousers are still welcome additions to their wardrobes. The velvet pencil skirts and pleated trapeze skirts might be too structured from what they were used to, but when paired with white puff-sleeved blouses with musketeer cuffs in chiffon or lace, the romantic aura they were looking for were provided readily.

And truly, who can say no to the white fur bolero that adorned a white floor-length frock cinched at the waist with a black bow, the bodice made of crocheted lace? Royalties and heiresses would snatch it the moment it reaches store shelves.

Unveiling his accessories collection, Elie Saab sent structured handbags in leather, python and patent croc trimmed with buckles and guipure or strips of mink. Footwear includes thigh-high boots and sandals that are styled like spats were punctuated with a guipure flower.

Directional and tight, Elie Saab foray into pręt-a-porter (this is only his second catwalk preview for his ready-to-wear line) is proving to be as successful as his haute couture line.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab