PARIS, Jul 8, 2006/ FW/ --- Last night, at Elie Saab’s show, the line for clients were longer than the line for press, authenticating Le Figaro’s article that the Lebanese designer has the biggest haute couture business in the world, with 800 couture pieces sold last season alone.

So, it was mayhem from the beginning, with clients who were impatient tried to go in the journalists queue just to be informed nicely that they have to go back to their own line.

But, all’s well ends well, the show starting a record 30 minutes late (Elie Saab is known starting on time, i.e., 15 minutes late, ‘on time’ for fashion show standards.) And the chaos at the door was immediately forgotten and forgiven when the first model came out wearing a figure-defining black mini dress with spaghetti straps, the bodice adorned with tiny ruffles all the way to the hemline.

It was obvious that for this season, Elie Saab is proposing new aesthetics to his clientele – Gothic elegance that is secretive and majestic at the same time, a new look that was not lost among the audience that was appreciative as the front row denizens just ate them all up with admiring eyes.

Saab, who is known for his joyful floral looks with a very upbeat countenance, gave his admirers and fans a pleasant surprise as he presented darker, edgier and more sophisticated looks.

A strapless black gown cut with a taut bodice softly curved on the model’s body, then turned soft on the hips, to become flowing at the hem, while the color turned into a gradient of black and pink.

The flowers, a requisite element for Elie Saab was embossed on the fabric, defined by either beading or embroidery. They were also graphical and stylized, the geometric shapes becoming the building block of prints, needlework and openwork trims.

Circles, chevrons, diamonds and wavy lines became part of Elie Saab’s new aesthetics, as he delved into the mystery of Gothic art.

Black, midnight blue, magenta, silver and beige were the color of choice. The silhouettes were always slim at the bodice, with the skirts presented as either full or flowing. This was a new Elie Saab – bolder and experimental.

Everything gelled, though at 45-pieces shown, it was longer than the accepted norm of haute couture. But, the clients did not seem to mind. In fact, when Tiiu, as the bride came out, signaling that this was the last exit, Elie Saab’s fans were clamoring for more.

Such is his popularity among the super rich set. They just cannot get enough of his creations!

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab

Elie Saab