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London's Off Schedule Shows Still Not to Be Missed
By Sasha Wilkins
Photos by Gruber-FWD
The London Off Schedule shows are such a well-established part of London Fashion Week that now it's no
surprise to find a large proportion of big-name buyers and press sitting expectantly in the front rows of
venues ranging from cinemas to nightclubs.
Once the preserve of fashion students and the overly curious, it's now a given that these shows are the
unmissable laboratories for the next big thing.
Thursday morning saw a disparate group of fashion junkies gathered in a converted fish market by the Thames
for a catwalk presentation by umbrella organization Fashion East.
Set up as a program to support new British fashion talent, Fashion East, now in its third season, provided
young design hopefuls House of Jazz, Lizzie Disney and Richard Kinloch with the means to show for Spring/Summer 2002.
Lizzie Disney, who got column inches for her strong collection last season, was unable to get enough samples
back from New York in the aftermath of last week's events and, at the last minute, decided not to show.
Inevitably her absence was noticed, as Kinloch and House of Jazz made uneasy bedfellows.
Kinloch showed first. His series of stylish and well cut, but ultimately unexciting silk, chiffon and jersey
dresses and separates made one wonder where his originality lied. However, several pieces were worth a second
look, including a sexy polka dot net flamenco dress and a lace backless top, draped and tied to form a clever
cape over the back.
Stylist Katie Grand, possibly England's most influential fashion editor, has adopted House of Jazz, which
should certainly smooth their path. A ‘70s-inspired set of ringleted girls traipsed down the runway in neat
sailor pants, pinafore dresses and long-sleeved mini dresses, accessorized with high Louboutin heels and
jaunty felt hats. A domino print fabric was used to good effect in a sultry gown and a full skirt. This is
a collection that London's small boutiques will be fighting over.
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