Paris, Oct 10, 2001/ FWD/ --- It was a decision that caused quite a stir: LVMH’s appointment of Welsh knitwear designer Julien Macdonald to be head of design for Givenchy – a post formerly held by such sartorial showmen as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

Though his debut haute couture collection for the house, shown this past summer, was met with lukewarm reactions, his success ultimately lies in the success of the ready-to-wear division.

Could Macdonald, though a skilled artisan, have what it takes to turn that into a money maker? It was certainly the question on everyone’s minds as they settled into their seats at the Charlety Stadium Wednesday afternoon to see what Macdonald had up his sleeve for Spring 2002.

Intended for a “free-spirited, independent woman,” as the show notes stated, the collection played around with loose, unconstructed looks in natural fabrics like cotton, muslin and canvas in ecru and wild rose hues.

Rope was a recurring element, used to trim the collar of a blouse or cinch it tight. It also configured a rather large handbag, presumably a practical piece for said woman’s “travels around the world.”

But as eager as the collection appeared to move in a new, well-spirited direction, many of the looks seemed vaguely familiar. Maybe it was the very ‘80s, Flashdance-y elements - voluminous, shoulder-baring blouses, self-cuffed shorts, tapered trousers (though interestingly tied with rope), leggings under ra-ra ruffles, and mesh sleeveless sweaters.

Or, possibly it was the Balenciaga references: corsets worn over gathered dance skirts and cropped, broad-shouldered waistcoats. Regardless, little appeared altogether novel.

There were, though, some interesting details: beautiful smocking around the wrists of blouses, loose fabric rolls around the collars, as well as very retail-savvy accessories, particularly a pair of rope-tied “pirate” ankle boots.

But, ironically, for a label that gained much of its notoriety dressing elegant icons like Audrey Hepburn, there was little intended for chic evening affairs. One look, simple yet smart, did stand out – a black asymmetrical décolleté dress belted with a rope.

When rumors began circulating that Alexander McQueen would not renew his contract with Givenchy, the fashion world had placed their bets that taking his place would be Olivier Theyskens – a Belgian designer whose own Spring 2002 collection, shown Sunday night, was met with rave reviews.

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald

Givenchy by Julien MacDonald