Mori, the first Japanese designer to become a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, French governing body for top fashion houses, announced her retirement from the fashion world in a statement issued by her company.

The 78-year old couturier, whose career spans 50 years and well-respected in her native Tokyo, New York and Paris fashion circles, paved the way for other Japanese designers such as Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake to be part of the elite spheres of high fashion.

Born in 1926 in rural Shimane, Hanae Mori studied literature at Tokyo Christian Women University, which was interrupted with the outbreak of World War II.

After the war, she returned to her studies, but got married before graduation to the son of a wealthy textile manufacturer. As a young bride, Hanae Mori found herself with lots of free time. Not wanting to be idle, she studied fashion design.

In 1951, she opened up a costume design business, and designed over 700 costumes for directors such as Ozu, Oshima and Kurosawa.

In 1960, when Hanae Mori was 34 years old, she accidentally met Coco Chanel during a suit fitting at Mademoiselle's atelier. She went home to Japan inspired, and embarked on further design training.

Six years later (1965), Hanae Mori made her debut in New York, with Neiman Marcus picking up her collection. Ten years after (1975), she moved to Paris, showed her haute couture collection at the French capital, and opened her Haute Couture Maison in 1977.

That same year, Hanae Mori became the first Japanese member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

After 27 years of showing her delicate kimono print fabrics and classic tailoring during the Haute Couture season, Hanae Mori is bidding farewell from the runway. With her retirement, the haute couture division of her company is also being closed according to the same statement.

The loss of Hanae Mori from the haute couture roster is a fresh blow in the dwindling numbers of the official members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

Currently, there are 11 haute couture members – Balmain, Chanel, Christian Dior, Dominique Sirop, Emanuel Ungaro, Givenchy, Hanae Mori, Jean Paul Gaultier, Scherrer, and Torrente.

Correspondents’ members include Valentino and Versace, while Guest members are Adeline Andre, Dupre Santabarbara, Elie Saab, Franck Sorbier, Grimaldi Giardina, Ji Haye, Maurizio Galante, On Aura Tout Vu, Ralph Rucci and Stephanie Coudert.

Among the full haute couture member, Balmain had not shown since the Fall 2003 season and currently in bankruptcy court.

Emanuel Ungaro, which by the way, is in great financial health had chosen not to show this season also. According to informed sources, Emanuel Ungaro, who 'retired' from designing prêt-a-porter will continue creating haute couture for his clients, but will no longer hold runway shows.

Versace, which is rumored to be in dire need of fresh capital infusion, also chose not to show this coming season. According to a report by Women’s Wear Daily, the Italian fashion house has also chosen to leave the rarified world of haute couture.

There are rumors going around in Paris that the Fall 2004 season will also be Jean Paul Gaultier’s last haute couture show. The reason cited is “lack of time,” and NOT lack of finances.

Gaultier, considered the crowned king of French fashion, and recently opened an exhibition at the Cartier Foundation, is already designing for two houses - under his own name and for Hermès, wherein he was appointed womenswear designer last year.

With the loss of Hanae Mori, debates whether haute couture will continue to be viable or not, will again arise. And yet if you consider that there are new stars on the rise, the debate seem immaterial.

Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix and of course, Jean Paul Gaultier currently dominate the scene.

Julien Fournié of Torrente, American designer Ralph Rucci and Lebanon native Elie Saab have captured the attention of the fashion press and most of all, the haute couture clientele.

Among those who show ‘off-calendar,’ Pascal Millet of Carven and Eyméric François have also earned a loyal following.

Yes, Hanae Mori will DEFINTELY be missed. Her signature butterfly-imprint textiles have been a part of the haute couture season over almost 3 decades. She is a trailblazer in her own right.

But, her retirement should be seen as ‘passing of the torch of fashion,’ and not a signal of impending doom of haute couture, because chances are, she would not have it any other way.