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Milan Designers Are Defining Elegance On Their Own Terms
Daily Blog: Sunday, Jan 15, 2006
Milan Menswear Show Fall 2006
By: Mari Davis

MILAN, Jan 15, 2006/ FW/ --- It is only the first day of the Milan Menswear season and an ‘elegant’ trend is already surfacing. But, while last season, it was a ‘return to elegance,’ this season, menswear designers are defining it on their own terms.

At Missoni, Luca Missoni took a look under the microscope and put the ‘inner world’ of plants on display, creating beautiful prints that have never been seen before except by botanists, though even the scientists might not recognize them because it was interpreted in fashion terms.

The prints might be bold, yet the subtle elegance that was the whole aura of the collection cannot be denied. Cardigans were translated into tuxedo jackets, a new kind of formal look for men.

Ennio Capasa also did it his way with a touch of the English gentleman to the rock & roll star. Sound incongruent on paper, but beautifully executed in clothes with snug fitting silhouettes that will appeal to Gen X and young baby boomers, including Gen Y.

Christopher Bailey at Burberry was on his element as Anglomania raged on in Milan. But, instead of going for the traditional English looks, the snug fitting jackets with rounded shoulders defined the young Englishman of today - a mix of rock & roll and old England.

Ozwald Boateng who has been getting a lot of press since late last year continues the saga of ‘his fashion story’ with the show today at Corzo Venezia. Signature Ozwald with crisp tailoring and perfect fitting jackets, the collection also defines as new Ozwald Boateng as he concentrated on subtlety, a sure sign that he is serious in getting into the American market, as it is going to be the topic of a documentary by Robert Redford’s Sundance Channel.

Everything was gorgeous from the first the last show, yet Donatella Versace still gets the biggest applause for her definition of blue as the new black. The Versace collection has all the ingredients of the Versace DNA as we have come to know it through the years.

But, Donatella added her own interpretation as the crisp tailoring also featured soft lines and understated machismo. It’s sexy but not overt – the new mood of Versace as Donatella defines and redefines the House of Medusa.

Previous: Salvatore Ferragamo’s Link With The Cinema Continues In 2006 Next: On The Way To Milan - Daily Blog: Saturday, Jan 14, 2006
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